The fashion industry is such a great backdrop for anything related to crime and has often been used effectively in crime/mystery shows (i.e. 'Murder She Wrote', 'Monk', the 'Law and Order' franchise, most Scooby Doo incarnations). My main reason for rewatching Season 17's twentieth episode "Fashionable Crimes" was John Munch returning, loved him as a character when he was a regular and hated how increasingly underused he became.
It was great to see him again, though the episode itself could have been a lot better. There are a lot of good things with it, and that is including Munch, but there have been much better stories, writing and character interactions on 'Special Victims Unit' episodes before and even since. Liked the idea of the story, which did have the makings for an at least interesting episode, but the execution generally felt on the bland side. A middling Season 17 episode.
Munch is a delight, some amusing lines and great authority and Richard Belzer embodies all that. Really loved his cute final scene, and the episode's closing scene is very sweet without being sickly. The writing was rather wanting here, but there were moments. With Barba's recovery from the bonnet line being hilarious.
Barba was always one of the best things about the latter seasons and his authority and sass shine here. Raul Esparza does a great job. The production values are still fully professional, the slickness and subtly gritty style still remaining. The music is sparingly used and is haunting and thankfully non-overwrought.
However, there are an equal number of shortcomings. Most of the team seemed tired and disconnected, have seen far more nuanced and involving performances from Mariska Hargitay since and especially before. The story is rather bland and suffers from a lack of any surprises or suspense, what should have surprised was obvious.
Carisi does some uncharacteristic conclusion jumping, immediately believing that the screams were genuine. There have been plenty of rootable victims on 'Special Victims Unit', but somehow the victim is rather unsympathetic with some of their behaviour frustrating where one is not sure whether to trust. The dialogue is fairly mundane and doesn't always flow.
In conclusion, another mixed feelings sort of episode. 5/10.