This movie is about simplicity of life being threatened by too much greed. Our American life has decayed so far out of simplicity that there's now a whole generation that has no idea what a simple life is like. No wonder so many people don't get this movie!
I surf and have for 20 years. I know a lot more surfers who are like these guys than aren't! All these guys whining about this not "being real" in regards to surfing need to lighten up a bit. Surfing used to be a lot of fun until it became mainstream and overcrowded. That's why I usually paddle over to the next peak to get away from the crowds even if it's not as good.
This movie is more about a guy who loves his lifestyle and having it threatened by extinction than anything else.
Take example from Tyler Durdin and "just let go". Let go of expectations and you might just find a gem right under your nose.
I surf and have for 20 years. I know a lot more surfers who are like these guys than aren't! All these guys whining about this not "being real" in regards to surfing need to lighten up a bit. Surfing used to be a lot of fun until it became mainstream and overcrowded. That's why I usually paddle over to the next peak to get away from the crowds even if it's not as good.
This movie is more about a guy who loves his lifestyle and having it threatened by extinction than anything else.
Take example from Tyler Durdin and "just let go". Let go of expectations and you might just find a gem right under your nose.